Router Cabinet Rebuild – the Base

The base sheet of the cabinet was cut out photo 2 (17)from the 3/4″ cabinet grade birch ply. I had the width ripped at the supplier, and I didn’t worry to much about it being dead on clean and straight, it’s going to be the base of a rolling unit in a shop. I expect it will get dinged up fast enough, no use worrying about the shiny finish from the start :).

The first time I laid out the base, I had to measure and measure to set the swiveling casters in place. I wanted them to be close enough to the edge that I could get to the brake, and far enough from the frame that they wouldn’t hang up on them as I pushed it around the shop. I’m using 4″ polyurethane casters because of the weight of the loaded unit and the fact that I want it to roll easily across the cracks in the floor, sawdust, and occasionally a power line (ok, that last part is not intentional).

This time time, I used the old base as a template, and just re-drilled the mounting holes for the casters. That worked out beautifully. I then used a brace and bit – with a shallow countersink bit – to inset the mounting screws so they wont interfere with cabinet placements.

photo 2 (18)

The old base as a template for drilling the caster mounting holes.

photo 3 (13)

… it worked really well.

photo 2 (17)

Counter sinking with a shallow countersink bit and brace I picked up on ebay. (this job paid for purchase!)

photo 1 (17)

Perfect fit and depth.

The frame of the base is 4″ high, that leaves a 1″ clearance underneath, which is sufficient to allow easy movement over sawdust, I picked up the 1×5’s at the home store –

sheesh... ski's maybe?

sheesh… maybe ski’s?

and of course did NOT sticker them when I got home. The nominal width is 4 1/2″, however I need to rip these down to 4″ to match the old design, and I don’t want to leave them too wide and have problems rolling it around. So, setting the saw cabinet back up on the old base, I re-installed the saw, rails and fence to put it back in service for a bit. The outside frame (sides) are 55″ and the ends are 28″. I opted to set the two inner frame runs at 8 1/4″ from each side. Using pocket hole screws I assemble the frame.

photo 1 (18) photo 2 (19)photo 1 (19)photo 2 (20)photo 4 (11)photo 5 (12)

The frame is laid out on the top side of the base piece, and the outlines of the parts are traced out to let me know where to drive screws. I used 1 3/4″ #6 wood screws (a bunch of them) and glue, to fasten the frame to the base board. Once done, it’s just a matter of reattaching the casters – and it’s ready to move the saw cabinet on to the new base.

photo (16)

Finally – on to the router cabinet proper!

 

 

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3 thoughts on “Router Cabinet Rebuild – the Base

  1. Pingback: Router Cabinet Rebuild – the Base | Brian's Workbench

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